some notes for those who may be wanting to do this mod:
When disassembling the projector you have two types of flat cables, push in and connectors that have a latch. The latched connector have what looks like a black bar across the connector, that’s the latch, to remove the cable use your fingernail and lift the latch up, the cable will be released. MARK THE CONNECTORS, although the cables in general cannot be plugged in wrong mark them anyway with a permanent marker.
the screws that hold the top of the housing on are on the bottom and edge of the projector. The black plastic vent that goes around the edge of the projector also helps to hold the top on.
I cut the first row of large fins on the “red led” heat sink off and flattened it up with a sheet of coarse sandpaper on a flat surface. I also removed the several rows of the right side large fins as seen from the rear of the heat sink large fins down (see the photos in earlier posts). The heat sink would not fit in the position facing the light tunnel without those fins being removed.
The peltier cooler is only stuck to the heat sink by heat sink compound you can just slide it off.
Tape the top of the heat-sink so that it does not short any of the circuits above it when in position (I used electrical tape temporarily. I will probably purchase some kapton tape, use a square of mylar or something similar. For testing, tape or insulate the power terminals on the led to prevent shorts (I will probably use silicone after testing).
I epoxied the peltier cooler to the heat sink and the uv led to the peltier (take care that the bottom of the peltier cooler does not extend below the bottom of the heat-sink). If you are going to use epoxy (use the good stuff) Make sure you clean the parts very well. Acetone, tar remover alcohol etc would probably work fine. The center of the uv led should be 15.5mm up from the bottom of the heatsink and 14.6 mm from the left edge of the heat-sink viewed looking at the heat-sink face large fins down. Use heat-sink compound on both the peltier and the uv led, any decent heat-sink compound will probably work fine. Note: I used only enough epoxy on the uv led to hold it in place for testing, once I have finished testing I will add more epoxy or a fabricated faceplate.
In the projector I purchased only the blue laser block is missing the red led assembly is not missing, also the projector is NEW.
Bear with me here: Once when I was driving cross country many years ago I came to a sign when I was crossing from one state (region or province to my non US readers) to another, it said FAIR WARNING followed by a long list of road hazards you might encounter driving through the state (including rock slides!). I have always thought of that sign when dealing with possible hazards. FAIR WARNING: the apparent brightness of the uv led is quite a bit less than it’s real brightness, use uv blocking safety glasses they are cheap on ebay. SAFETY FIRST.
If you are thinking of doing this mod (no guarantees) contact me at the link in the image below and I will send you the sources of the parts I am using (projector, uv led, power supply, UV BLOCKING SAFETY GLASSES, etc).